To paraphrase the island’s famous sobriquet “Sardinia, almost a continent”, it is certain that many would not hesitate to define it as a “continent in a continent”. It’s the perfect description of Ogliastra, a showcase of coastal and mountain treasures that are still partially safeguarded from mass tourism.
Cala Luna, Cala Fuili and Cala Goloritzè are three of the most evocative beaches: turquoise water of rare beauty with fine pearly sand that can only be reached by boat or by way of arduous footpaths.
The gentle landscape can suddenly turn dramatic with promontories and rocky precipices (the Red Rocks of Arbatax are a must-see) as if to announce the more savage parts of Ogliastra with crags eroded by the wind, the tangled vegetation of the Barbagia region and the cuiles – the ancient dwellings of shepherds – that have been renovated to host travellers with the “Wild Blue”, Europe’s most beautiful yet challenging hiking route.
Another sight is Europe’s deepest gorge, Su Gorropu – enchanting yet disconcerting – along with Nuragic archaeology’s famous village of Tiscali.
The distinct flavours of the local cuisine come as no surprise (the culurgiones, cheese and cold cuts are the best): this is a land of contrasts, sharp tastes that combine perfectly because the fragrance nature has created here cannot be changed by humans, nor would we dare to. It really is a continent all its own.
